After our adventure in Sagada, we headed to Mount Pinatubo, the active volcano that erupted in 1991 leaving behind a moon-like landscape.
We decided to stop on our way in Baguio, nicknamed “the summer capital of the Philippines”, at a halfway distance between Sagada and Santa Juliana, the last big village before the trek to the volcano.
Despite its promising nickname and being surrounded by mountains, Baguio is not what I‘d call a beautiful city. It’s busy and crowded, a sort of smaller Manila. I disliked it at the beginning, but then we discovered a nice place called the Garden in the Sky, in the Tam-awan Village. It is a small village of the original natives of Baguio, preserving a few of the Ifugao traditional houses. The huts are functional and can be rented out for the overnight stay.
In the evening we took a walk through the city and we found by chance a street festival, a sort of popular fiesta with lots of people swarming by the narrow streets. We ate some delicious local dish at a food stall and had the loveliest dessert ever: puto bumbong, a purple-colored sticky rice cake shaped in banana leaf and flavored with sugar, fresh grated coconuts and butter. Mmm, so yummy!
The next morning, we continued our way and after changing one bus and a crowded jeepney we arrived in Santa Juliana. The village is the kick-off of the trek to the volcano’s crater. We spent the night at BS Farmhouse, a nice and cozy farm ran by a lovely family. It’s a bit difficult to find, you need to notice a faded board on the left side of the road, just at the entrance of Santa Juliana. We wouldn’t have spotted it ever if not for the people in the Tourism Office who were nice enough to show us the way.
The next day we got up at 5 a.m. and after a simple but delicious breakfast (mango’s, rice and eggs) we headed to the local Tourism Office to meet the jeep that would take us closer to Pinatubo’s crater.
We skipped the local tours as we thought their offer was kind of expensive (about 3,400 php/person for a group of 2) and instead we booked the 4X4 jeep with the local Tourism Office. We were lucky to find 3 more tourists willing to make the same trip and share the costs. We ended up paying about 1,500 php/person.
The trek to Pinatubo looks like a war zone. Driving through the Crow Valley, with its bumpy roads, ash fields, dead trees and rocky rivers is quite an experience. Everywhere you look, you can see the traces of the lava that came down to the valley and destroyed pretty everything on its way. Actually right after the eruption, the area was hit by a typhoon, which generated an enormous amount of a mudflow (water mixed with ash deposits and dust) that flooded through the valleys of the mountain. As a result, the mountains had some dramatic patterns, made by the merciless burning lava biting through the rock. Just like a pair of scissors cuts through the paper.
The jeep takes you up to a certain point. From there, you need to walk up to the crater, under the scorching heat. On the way we stopped at an Aeta Village, inhabited by one of the oldest indigenous tribes in the Philippines. The Aetas had lived for hundreds of years in this area, but the eruption was devastating to them.
The trek to the crater lake takes about 20 minutes and it’s pretty easy. Once you are there you get to enjoy a serene landscape, dominated by the blue waters of the lake. The complete silence and relaxing in the warm, clear waters make this experience unforgettable.