A Second Trip to Tokyo

Last week we went to Tokyo for a second time.

The first time we were a bit in a rush to get the most out of the city, in three days.  The second time, however we had time to discover a  city where I’d love to live for a couple of years, full of happenings and events that I overlooked the first time I visited.   A city whose vibrant atmosphere, funky people, eclectic neighboorhoods and huge neon-lights make you want to come back again and again and again.

There are a couple of things that I loved this time in Tokyo:

1. Relaxing at Cafe Ki

I found out about Ki Cafe from an article in Bored Panda where the place was featured among the 20 of the world’s best restaurant and bar interior designs. Ki means ‘tree’ in Japanese and the design of the place is built around the idea of a forest. But a very abstract, minimalist one.

The table legs go up to look like tree trunks and branches. The whole space is painted in white, which makes a beautiful contrast against the blackness of the branches. Their coffee is really good, I had a hazelnut latte. So are the cakes….but I’ll let the pictures talk.

Ki Cafe TokyoKi Cafe Tokyo Ki Cafe Tokyo

2. Shimokitazawa neighbourhood

It is nicknamed ‘the younger cousin of Harajuku’ because of its equally funky atmosphere and small eclectic streets that you’d usually find in Harajuku. But if Harajuku has the popularity, Shimokita has the cool kids and the indie vibe. You can spend an entire afternoon here, wandering through the music shops that line the street, the popular eateries and vintage clothing stores.

tokyo shimokitazawa tokyo shimokitazawatokyo shimokitazawa tokyo shimokitazawatokyo shimokitazawa tokyo shimokitazawa tokyo shimokitazawa tokyo shimokitazawa tokyo shimokitazawa tokyo shimokitazawatokyo shimokitazawa

3. Walking on Rainbow Bridge

Tokyo’s Rainbow Bridge which spans Tokyo Bay offers a  great view of the city, especially at night, with the dozens of lighted sky-scrapers. The walk is not long, around 1km and there are two routes: the South and the North route. We took the North route, with views on Tokyo harbour and Tokyo Tower. The South side offers views of Tokyo Bay and, if you’re lucky and it’s daytime, Mount Fuji.

To get on the bridge the easiest and nicest way is to take the Yurikamome line, a driverless elevated train that has some great views on Tokyo bay.

Rainbow bridge Tokyo Rainbow bridge TokyoRainbow bridge Tokyo  Rainbow bridge Tokyo Rainbow bridge Tokyo

(Oh, and it seems that the rainbow colour lights are only during the Christmas period, and the bridge looks like that):

Rainbow bridge Tokyo

Photo credits: Wikipedia

 4. A stop at the Toilet Exhibition in Miraikan Museum

It’s been everywhere in the news lately, and words like looney and weird would often describe it. So, I had to go and see for myself.

The exhibition is clearly targeted to kids , trying to teach them about the human waste and its impact on the environment. I found it creative and funny, mostly the part where you get flushed down a huge porcelain toilet, wearing …a poop hat :).

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In case you forgot the different shapes the human feces can have, here’s a reminder:):

toilet exhibition tokyo toilet exhibition tokyo toilet exhibition tokyo

The exhibition features also different toilets around the globe and from the Japanese Edo period, as well as some innovative systems, like the pants that collect the urine:

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If you had enough of the scatological atmosphere, go on the 5th floor of the museum and have a chat with the lifelike robot Otonaroid or listen to the news read by Kodomoroid. It’s a bit spooky, but amazing in the same time!

Humanoid robots Humanoid robots

5. The Art Aquarium Exhibition by the artist Hidetomo Kimura

The Art Aquarium exhibition is a stunning form of art, combining about 5,000 goldfish in aquariums with colourful lightning, music, futuristic designs and traditional Japanese motifs (lanterns, folding screens, kimonos).

It’s really one of the most fantastic things I’ve seen so far, so anyone who’s in Tokyo shouldn’t miss it. The exhibition is open to public until 23 September 2014.

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The Philippines (2). Street Fiesta, the Joy of Local Food and the Mighty Pinatubo

After our adventure in Sagada, we headed to Mount Pinatubo, the active volcano that erupted in 1991 leaving behind a moon-like landscape.

We decided to stop on our way in Baguio, nicknamed “the summer capital of the Philippines”, at a halfway distance between Sagada and Santa Juliana, the last big village before the trek to the volcano.

Despite its promising nickname and being surrounded by mountains, Baguio is not what I‘d call a beautiful city. It’s busy and crowded, a sort of smaller Manila. I disliked it at the beginning, but then we discovered a nice place called the Garden in the Sky, in the Tam-awan Village. It is a small village of the original natives of Baguio, preserving a few of the Ifugao traditional houses. The huts are functional and can be rented out for the overnight stay.

Philippines, Pinatubo

In the evening we took a walk through the city and we found by chance a street festival, a sort of popular fiesta with lots of people swarming by the narrow streets. We ate some delicious local dish at a food stall and had the loveliest dessert ever: puto bumbong, a purple-colored sticky rice cake shaped in banana leaf and flavored with sugar, fresh grated coconuts and butter. Mmm, so yummy!

Philippines, Pinatubo

The next morning, we continued our way and after changing one bus and a crowded jeepney we arrived in Santa Juliana.  The village is the kick-off of the trek to the volcano’s crater. We spent the night at BS Farmhouse, a nice and cozy farm ran by a lovely family. It’s a bit difficult to find, you need to notice a faded board on the left side of the road, just at the entrance of Santa Juliana. We wouldn’t have spotted it ever if not for the people in the Tourism Office who were nice enough to show us the way.

The next day we got up at 5 a.m. and after a simple but delicious breakfast (mango’s, rice and eggs) we headed to the local Tourism Office to meet the jeep that would take us closer to Pinatubo’s crater.

Philippines, Pinatubo Philippines, Pinatubo

We skipped the local tours as we thought their offer was kind of expensive (about 3,400 php/person for a group of 2) and instead we booked the 4X4 jeep with the local Tourism Office.  We were lucky to find 3 more tourists willing to make the same trip and share the costs. We ended up paying about 1,500 php/person.

The trek to Pinatubo looks like a war zone. Driving through the Crow Valley, with its bumpy roads, ash fields, dead trees and rocky rivers is quite an experience. Everywhere you look, you can see the traces of the lava that came down to the valley and destroyed pretty everything on its way. Actually right after the eruption, the area was hit by a typhoon, which generated an enormous amount of a mudflow (water mixed with ash deposits and dust) that flooded through the valleys of the mountain. As a result, the mountains had some dramatic patterns, made by the merciless burning lava biting through the rock. Just like a pair of scissors cuts through the paper.

Philippines, Pinatubo Philippines, PinatuboPhilippines, Pinatubo

The jeep takes you up to a certain point. From there, you need to walk up to the crater, under the scorching heat. On the way we stopped at an Aeta Village, inhabited by one of the oldest indigenous tribes in the Philippines. The Aetas had lived for hundreds of years in this area, but the eruption was devastating to them.

Philippines, PinatuboPhilippines, Pinatubo

The trek to the crater lake takes about 20 minutes and it’s pretty easy. Once you are there you get to enjoy a serene landscape, dominated by the blue waters of the lake. The complete silence and relaxing in the warm, clear waters make this experience unforgettable.

Philippines, PinatuboPhilippines, Pinatubo

Challenge: You Can Draw in 30 Days (Lesson 10)

Last week, I started the one month challenge of learning how to draw.  Eight days later, I am finally at Lesson 10.

Lesson 10 talks about the cylinder and up to now I learned to use important basic concepts like placement, overlapping of objects, shading, contour lines, shadows, etc.

At the end of these eight days I feel more confident and I’m not so scared anymore of drawing. Plus, it’s really fun and fulfilling. I now get that feeling in the morning of wanting to jump out of bed before the alarm goes off and start drawing :). And it’s so nice!

Lesson 10 looks like this: IMG_20140709_144141 IMG_20140709_142518 (2)


The Philippines (1). Hanging Coffins, Cave Connection and Dreams of a Better Life

His name is  Novi. He greets us with a generous smile and welcomes us to this country. Sagada, The Philippines.

We had just arrived, after a whole night spent in a shabby bus driving us from Manila to Banaue. It was only our first day in the Philippines and we already started to feel the adventure, crammed in the back of an overloaded bus, among dozens of tourists and locals. In Banaue we took some time to admire the famous rice terraces in the crisp morning light. An almost otherworldly view.

cave connection sagada

We arrived in Sagada after a two hour ride on the roof of a colorful jeepney, the whole journey trying to find a sweet spot between backpacks, building materials, sacks of rice and other adventurous tourists and locals.

cave connection sagada

We meet Novi in front of the Tourism Office. He is our guide for what will soon be our greatest adventure in the Philippines: a 2,500 feet and three hour long underground journey between Lumiang and Sumaguing Caves.

At the cave entrance we linger for a while to look at the wooden coffins that are hanging on the walls. It is an ancient funeral custom seen in different parts of Southeast Asia. During this time, Novi gets ready for the descent, lighting the kerosene lamp that will guide us through the blackness.

cave connection sagada cave connection sagada

At the beginning it’s not that bad. We get used to the slippery rocks quite quickly and we advance with confidence. But very soon the whole picture changes completely: to go futher, we need to squeeze through narrow passages, us ropes to rappel downwards, slide on rock and even use Novi as a ladder in order to get down.

But our guide is calm and keeps joking. He makes sure that the light from his kerosene lamp always points towards us, making us feel a bit safer through the overwhelming darkness. Novi knows his way well and he is sure of every move he makes. He shows us the way down impossibly tiny passages, which we hardly believe we can squeeze through (but actually pull it off) and he double checks the rappel ropes.

By now we became less and less tense, we laugh more at Novi’s jokes and we start telling stories from back home. He lives in a small village near Sagada, but he comes here whenever the Tourism Office needs him as a guide. The money he gains is enough to cover his family’s basic needs, but he dreams of a better life. He asks us about Romania, he wants to know if he could get a job there. I’m a bit surprised by his question. I never considered my country to be a place where people come searching for a better life. Actually a lot of Romanians are leaving their country precisely for that reason. Novi says that in the Philippines there aren’t too many job opportunities, so he’ll go anywhere he can find better employment. He’s determined to try no matter what. Maybe going to Hong Kong or richer countries near the Philippines could be a better idea.

As we talk, we continue sliding further down into the cave and admiring the strange rock formation around us. Novi leads us to a small pool and asks us if we want to swim in it. He places the lamp in front of us, so that we can see the rocks surrounding the underground water. After a moment’s hesitation, we jump in and instanly feel the icy water trying to swallow us. It is not too deep but it’s freezing cold.

Surprisingly, when we get out of the water, we feel warm. We put our clothes on quickly and continue exploring.  Shortly after, we hear other voices and see more kerosene lights flickering up on the rocks. We just reached at the end of the cave, a more touristy part of the circuit. We look around to see the different formations Novi is pointing out to us: a stone frog, a chocolate cake, a queen and a king, lions, huge curtains.

As we climb out of the cave, we feel a bit sad that it’s over. What felt like a great adventure will now become only a memory. We are finally out and exchange a few more words with Novi, thanking him for this wonderful experience. He invites us to his village, 4 km away. But it’s a long way and we are tired. It’s been a tough day, but loads of fun and good memories.

cave connection sagada

Not to miss in Sagada:

  • Eat dinner @ Salt&Pepper, they have a delicious food and cozy atmosphere
  • Grab a delicious pie @Lemon Pie, once you finished the exhausting cave connection; it’s a wonderful little coffee-shop ran by a family. We enjoyed mostly the egg pie, though the lemon one is pretty ok as well. When we got there, it seemed like all the family gathered together to serve us with a slice of their delicious pie :);
  • Start your morning with an amazing breakfast @ Yoghurt House, and try the fruit&yoghurt mix, it’s made with fresh seasonal fruit and the mango is a.m.a.z.i.n.g!

Ode to Magical Iceland

About one year ago, we spent our honeymoon in Iceland, traveling around with a tent, a car and two very dear friends. We left directly from the city hall, after some rounds of photos and quick bites of colorful macarons. I remember I kept finding rice grains in my hair, during the flight and even the next day, scattered all around the hotel room.

It was June and everybody was ready for the summer, the sea, the breeze, the lazy afternoons in the sun…except for us. We packed the warmest clothes we could find, as highest temperatures in Iceland at the beginning of summer were about 14°C. And during the night, the undaunted presence of a cool air made it really hard to believe it was summer time.

But I completely fell in love with Iceland. It’s truly a land of wonder, with dramatic scenery. No matter where you look, there is a form of pure beauty.

I loved the isolation you sometimes felt when driving through endless lava fields.

I loved the greatness of nature. The otherwordly light that was sometimes scattered on the ground. The whimsical contrasts of brightness and shadows made by the sunlight. The mighty waterfalls, the glaciers, the streams and rainbows, the black beaches and milky skies.

I loved the adventure. From hiking, caving, whale watching, glacier tours, getting wet under the waterfalls, crossing rivers with no other bridge than a timber, I enjoyed everything like a kid who discovered something for the first time.

I loved camping. Iceland is one of the safest country for camping. It’s very organized and when you don’t find a camp nearby, you can basically place your tent anywhere, as long as you don’t harm the vegetation. While we were heading nort-west, to the fjords we stopped at some point because we were tired and we camped on some unbuilt land. In the morning we woke up surrounded by cute, fluffy sheep, curious to see us there.

I loved feeling magical. Because everything is so serene out there. Because of the absence of people. And simply because Iceland is a magic place.

Thank you, Iceland, for these beautiful dream-like memories. We wish to come back soon. Magic IcelandMagic Iceland Magic Iceland Magic IcelandMagic Iceland Magic IcelandMagic Iceland Magic Iceland Magic IcelandMagic IcelandMagic Iceland Magic Iceland Magic IcelandMagic Iceland Magic Iceland Magic IcelandMagic IcelandMagic IcelandMagical Iceland